Aufguss: The incredible power of sauna in Shetland

The older I get, the more I crave experiences that ground me, that allow me to truly connect with the natural world. I find myself increasingly seeking spaces that offer respite from the constant hum of digital noise and the demands of modern life. Believe it or not, but I spend most of my days sitting at a computer – not the open spaces and horizons that you see on my Instagram stories!

So, when Haar Saua invited me to visit their sauna on the beautiful St Ninian’s Isle beach for an Aufguss session, I didn’t have to think twice. In Nordic cultures, there is a term that embodies this kind of immersive experience – In Sauna. It refers to the profound, almost spiritual feeling you get from the intense heat of a sauna, a place where time slows and everything else fades away.

In Finland, the spiritual home of sauna, the sauna is more than just a retreat for the body; it’s an essential part of life. It’s where business is done, friendships are forged, and communities are nurtured. It’s not just a luxury, but a necessity – an intimate space for renewal and connection.

Here in Shetland, Haar has their flagship sauna on St Ninian’s Isle Beach, tucked in beneath the dunes, sheltered from the worst of the wind, and with incredible views that tease you from the door’s window. St Ninian’s is the ideal location for a sauna, and the small footprint it takes up on this sweeping tombolo simply adds to the experience of visiting this iconic South Mainland beach. With another sauna in the north at Brae, and more deep-heat ideas in the pipeline, Haar has firmly planted the seed of Nordic culture back in Shetland.

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St Ninian’s Isle tombolo in Shetland’s South Mainland

The benefits of sauna are well-known and wide-ranging, from improving circulation and reducing stress, to cleansing the body and boosting heart health. But perhaps the most transformative aspect of the sauna experience, particularly the Aufguss ritual, is its ability to restore and calm the spirit. It’s a practice that goes beyond physical health – it’s deeply grounding, reconnecting us with the earth and allowing us to feel truly present in the moment.

Haar Sauna is a true haven of tradition. The comforting crackle of a wood-fired stove envelops you in its warmth as the door closes on the cool winter air. Haar Sauna is an experience that feels timeless and authentic.

As you approach the beach, the sight of its chimney puffing smoke amidst the dunes and the Atlantic Ocean's backdrop immediately draws you in—a perfect contrast to the landscape's raw, wild beauty.

January’s days are sharp and short, and with the biting wind nipping at our exposed ankles, we made our way to the beach, against the cold, sharp air – the sight of the smoking sauna chimney and open beach fire surrounded by benches kicked any thoughts of winter’s grey gloom into the salty air and chill Atlantic waves beyond.

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Warming up after a sea dip at Haar Sauna

Welcomed by the flickering warmth of the campfire, burning bright and steady in the low, late-afternoon gloaming. The fire, surrounded by benches, cut through the chill of the season, coaxing us in to pause, breathe, and reconnect.

Haar Sauna is the vision of Callum and Hannah-Mary, a local couple who, after several years in Norway, longed to bring a piece of Nordic culture to this coastal landscape which was once part of the wider Scandinavian world. Their dream was simple yet profound – to reconnect people to nature, to the elemental power of deep heat, and to offer a space where the soul can find stillness amidst the rush of life. This sauna, with its gentle smoke rising into the air, is not just a place to warm the body, but a sanctuary for anyone seeking to reconnect, rejuvenate, and embrace the beauty of simplicity.

Callum and Hannah-Mary, the couple who brought sauna to Shetland

We had four deep heat sauna sessions where Callum led the Aufguss ritual with essential oils and vihtas, taking us to a place of deep relaxation and calm. These sessions of intense heat were followed by a series of cold dips in the sea. The contrast between the heat of the sauna and the cold of the sea has a profound effect on the body, which tingles as senses sharpen to the contrasts of hot and cold. The sauna causes blood vessels to dilate, while the cold sea causes them to constrict. Meanwhile, your heart rate increases with the heat, before slowing to steady the effects of the cold.

Vihtas, or birch branches, are used to hit or massage the body, improving circulation and connecting you with nature. The Haar vihtas are made from willow, birch and aspen; the branches are collected in the first flush of spring before being dried and rehydrated in water before the Aufguss session. The smell, heady and earthy, was an assault on the senses, and deeply ethereal. I closed my eyes, trying to absorb every drop of nature’s tonic. It was bliss – the perfect escape.

Vihtas, a key aspect of the Aufguss ritual

After each dip, we sat by the fire as our bodies readjusted back to a normal temperature before repeating the process in the sauna once more. Amongst good company and a winter sky becoming inkier by the minute in the gathering darkness, it was hard not to imagine that we were exactly where we needed to be in that given moment.

Some experiences in life are so profound, so deeply stirring, that trying to put them into words feels like an injustice to their impact. This is one of those moments. I’ve rarely felt so alive, so rooted in the present, as I did in that space as Cal led the Aufguss session. I left feeling relaxed and recharged – and incredibly sleepy – but also with something far deeper. The revitalizing power of the Aufguss lingered in my body long after I’d wrapped myself in my Dry Robe and made my way back to the car, leaving a sandy trail behind me. My skin hummed with the energy of the experience – it was as if the heat, the ritual, and the stillness had seeped into my bones, awakening something within me that stayed long after the waves of St Ninian’s had faded from view.

If you’re in any doubt about whether or not the sauna is for you, I can wholeheartedly say that this is an experience that everyone would love. Of course, and as with anything, there are a few contraindications, and you should check that it is safe for you to sauna beforehand (all this information is available on the Haar Sauna website) https://www.haarsauna.com/info.

As I bask in the memory of my Aufguss session, I’d like to say a huge thank you to Cal for performing the Aufguss and leaving us feeling refreshed and recharged as January comes to an end. In a world that’s always pulling us in a thousand directions, the Haar Sauna, on that cold January day, offered me a rare space for stillness, healing, and connection. In that space, I found not just relaxation but a deeper sense of who I am and where I belong.

If you’re in Shetland, you can book your sauna session online at haarsauna.com.

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