Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
Recipe: Shetland Rhubarb Crumble
"Rhubarb is a word which rolls on the tongue with relish. It sounds both rude and absurd, and the imagination has found all sorts of uses for it."~ Mary Prior, Rhubarbaria I am an absolute rhubarb fanatic, I just love the stuff, and this is the best time of year to indulge in it. The sweet, fresh shoots are just bursting with tang and spring flavour as we move towards June. This is always the first dish I cook with rhubarb every year and I make sure that I freeze a few for winter too [...]
Shetland’s award-winning beaches
St Ninian's Isle beach in Shetland's South Mainland. Whether it’s hidden coves, sweeping sands or stony strands, Shetland has it all and, among the many beaches that make up Shetland’s breathtaking coastline, there are five that have been included in the national Beach Awards, part of the Keep Scotland Beautiful charity.These awards “are the benchmark for quality, celebrating clean, well managed and sustainable beaches.” Those selected “demonstrate excelle [...]
Seabirds and Seals: A book review
‘Whiskers’, a favourite grey seal at Shetland Catch. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Wills. With more and more of us looking to literature to get our daily break away from the news, I thought that in this blog, I would share a book review I wrote for The New Shetlander. The New Shetlander is a magazine founded in 1947 – the oldest literary and community journal in Scotland. It comes out every quarter, and the editors welcome contributions about Shetland and the world. If y [...]
Depending on the sea: George Arthur Fullerton (1863-1914)
Granny Tam's beach with the ruins of their house behind it, on the now-uninhabited island of Papa. We are our ancestors; we are here because they lived. We are here because they nurtured our parents and generations of grandparents before us. Some of our relations we have the privilege of knowing. Some, like George Arthur Fullerton, we know because we hear about them, we’re shown grainy photographs and told that they left this world before we arrived. For me, they are the solemn [...]
The origins of Up Helly Aa and the festival today
Up Helly Aa is almost upon us and you can feel excitement levels in the town growing as people make ready for, what is to some, the social event of the year. Up Helly Aa, despite what is often believed, is not an ancient festival passed down from Norse times, but it is a festival with its roots in Shetland’s Victorian era. And like any proper Victorian soiree, theatrical pomp and ceremony was abundant…
1469: A monumental change in Shetland's rule
Scalloway Fire Festival galley burning 2017. The differences between Shetland and the rest of Scotland can be quite striking. Many visitors arrive here expecting the full Scottish treatment – the haggis, the kilts and the bagpipes – and I find myself quickly explaining to them that much of the culture and tradition in Shetland stems from the close ties that we had with Scandinavia in the past and that actually, we have only been part of Scotland for some 550 years. To un [...]
Happy New Year - a year end and new beginnings
I’ve not planted my garlic yet. To most, this isn’t very meaningful, but to me, it’s a really big deal. I’ve been self-sufficient in garlic for at least six years, and this is the first year that those hopeful little bulbs have not been carefully placed into the cold November earth. I’ve also not planted my spring tulips – another source of frustration and anguish – another stick to beat myself with over the dark months. [...]
Shetland Climate Action: Plastic
Dolphin made from beach-found plastics at Hillswick Wildlife Sanctuary. We are in a climate crisis, and it seems that everywhere we look, we are reminded of this grim reality. It can feel overwhelming, but there are things we can all do on a small, local level to abate this. This morning, before breakfast, I consumed two climate change articles and signed a petition calling for our council to declare a ‘climate crisis’. Shetland is often at the raw end of climate change [...]
Top 7 places to visit in Shetland
Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement. Photo: Sophie Whitehead As you read this, I will (hopefully) be sunning my weary legs on a beach in the Adriatic, or exploring a medieval town’s backstreets. The reality is, I’ll probably be trying to rub sun cream into sandy skin, stickied with ice-cream while wondering if it’s an acceptable time to order a large glass of sauvignon blanc. As I was planning the holiday, I found myself ‘googling’ “best things to [...]
The Lodge, Fetlar: A review and itinerary for your stay
The Lodge in Fetlar; the perfect rural retreat in Shetland. In early August we stayed in an award-winning self-catering cottage in Fetlar. The Lodge sits tucked above the shore, overlooking Lambhoga, and won the 2019 Lux Life’s most Tranquil Accommodation award. And wow, what a spot. As you drive into Houbie, the heart of the island, The Lodge comes into view. Nestled in the shadow of the impressive, if imposing, Leagarth House to which the Lodge was built to serve; originally as a [...]
A beginner's guide to Shetland: A few pointers in the right direction for those arriving.
Commercial Street, Lerwick on a busy summer day A beginners guide to ShetlandYou’ve read the travel guide? Great. You’ve seen the Shetland TV series, even better; now read a real guide from a local. Delve a little deeper into the fascinating culture of the place I call home: Shetland.Our island’s culture and tradition is unique and distinctively ‘not Scottish’ – if that’s a thing? We’ve only been part of Scotland for 550 years so don’ [...]
Private Karl Manson (1897-1917)
Private Karl Manson in full Seaforth Highlander uniform before departing for France, 1916 “If we think only on his life, and count, like the sun-dial, only the sunshine hours, we shall not let the gloom and daily fear which has so long overcast the sky for us at home, spread the dullness and dread of our last few months over our former remembrance of those who have died for us”.Haunting words, written in memory of Karl Manson, offered as comfort to his mother following his un [...]
A walk to Hermaness, Unst
A sheep at Hermaness, Unst Have you ever wondered what it would feel like to stand on the edge of the world? When I was little, I had big dreams. Dreams of sailing away to far-flung places in the world, but as I grew older, my career advisor told me that that wasn’t possible. “You can’t sail around the world,” she said. Despite this dream-shattering moment, I often find myself thinking about the vastness of the world, and our place in it, as I gaze out over the ro [...]
"What do you do in winter?": some reflections on writing and life
"I am no bird; and no net ensnares me; I am a free human being with an independent will, which I now exert to leave you." ~ Jane Eyre When I was about 12 years old, I wrote a poem about a caged bird. It wasn’t that great; nobody really liked it but me. For me, it spoke more about how I felt when I put the words on paper than what the words actually said. I dumped it, although I wish now I’d kept it as it sticks in my memory like that little grains of sand betw [...]
A guide to walking to the Lang Ayre, Northmavine
The Lang Ayre, Northmavine. Photo courtesy of Southspear Media If a Munro is a small mountain, then a Marilyn is a small Munro. And a small-small mountain is exactly what we climbed (and some) a few weeks ago. I was invited to join a lovely group of folk on a hike to the Lang Ayre in Northmavine in Shetland’s North Mainland. The Lang Ayre was a bucket list goal of mine, the long walk which takes in the small-small mountain, Ronas Hill – the highest in Shetland – is one [...]
Summer or Winter: Da Simmer Dim at 60° North
Morning light in Shetland's west mainland I often read Peedie Peebles’ Summer or Winter Book by Mairi Hedderwick to my bairns. They’ve both loved it; and so did I when it was read to me as a child. This illustrated children’s book looks at the antics of mischievous toddler, Peedie Peebles, as he goes through the trials and tribulations of being little, following him through summer and winter. Importantly, it highlights the differences between the seasons – the end [...]
Packing list: What to wear in Shetland
A summer day at the Hams of Roe (note the hat) I’m always reminded of the words of my great-grandmother when thinking about what to wear; her words still echo in my head as clear as though it was yesterday. “Nivir cast a cloot, till da munt o’ May is oot” were the words she – and many before her – said. And it’s true; we still experience cool weather in May. Wrapped up and layered up against the elements at Eshaness in winter. Phot [...]
Varda self-catering: A review & itinerary for your stay
Looking down Whalefirth, Yell Shetland is peppered with beautiful old buildings, and none are more evocative and thought-provoking than some of our old church buildings that are found dotted around the islands. Once seats of spiritual worship and ecclesiastical power, many are now privately owned and have undergone refurbishment. Varda self-catering, situated on the island of Yell, is one of these. Varda self-catering, former church for the Herra community, lovingly restored [...]
A Guide to cycling in Shetland: What you need to know
All photos courtesy of James Irvine With summer just around the corner, many of us are dusting off our bikes and hitting the roads (or pavements). I spoke to James Irvine about his experiences cycling in Shetland. Many people ask me about cycling here, and as I’m more of the cycle-around-taking-Instagram-videos kinda cyclist, I thought I’d better consult an expert on this one. If you are thinking to come to Shetland on two wheels rather than four, then th [...]
The Taing, Reawick (self-catering): A review & itinerary for your stay
The Taing sits nestled on the edge of the striking red sands of Reawick beach on Shetland's west mainland, offering the ideal rural retreat You know when someone envelops you in a warm embrace, and you feel every ounce of stress flow from your body? That’s exactly what the Taing in Reawick does. Situated just a stone’s throw from the beach, in a quiet corner of Shetland’s west mainland, the house has been lovingly restored, the interior care [...]
More about Shetland
Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
From your journey here to the most accessible venues, accommodation and tours for your stay, we’ve worked with Ability Shetland to put together a guide to accessibility in the islands.