Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
Summer or Winter: Da Simmer Dim at 60° North
Morning light in Shetland's west mainland I often read Peedie Peebles’ Summer or Winter Book by Mairi Hedderwick to my bairns. They’ve both loved it; and so did I when it was read to me as a child. This illustrated children’s book looks at the antics of mischievous toddler, Peedie Peebles, as he goes through the trials and tribulations of being little, following him through summer and winter. Importantly, it highlights the differences between the seasons – the end [...]
Packing list: What to wear in Shetland
A summer day at the Hams of Roe (note the hat) I’m always reminded of the words of my great-grandmother when thinking about what to wear; her words still echo in my head as clear as though it was yesterday. “Nivir cast a cloot, till da munt o’ May is oot” were the words she – and many before her – said. And it’s true; we still experience cool weather in May. Wrapped up and layered up against the elements at Eshaness in winter. Phot [...]
Varda self-catering: A review & itinerary for your stay
Looking down Whalefirth, Yell Shetland is peppered with beautiful old buildings, and none are more evocative and thought-provoking than some of our old church buildings that are found dotted around the islands. Once seats of spiritual worship and ecclesiastical power, many are now privately owned and have undergone refurbishment. Varda self-catering, situated on the island of Yell, is one of these. Varda self-catering, former church for the Herra community, lovingly restored [...]
A Guide to cycling in Shetland: What you need to know
All photos courtesy of James Irvine With summer just around the corner, many of us are dusting off our bikes and hitting the roads (or pavements). I spoke to James Irvine about his experiences cycling in Shetland. Many people ask me about cycling here, and as I’m more of the cycle-around-taking-Instagram-videos kinda cyclist, I thought I’d better consult an expert on this one. If you are thinking to come to Shetland on two wheels rather than four, then th [...]
The Taing, Reawick (self-catering): A review & itinerary for your stay
The Taing sits nestled on the edge of the striking red sands of Reawick beach on Shetland's west mainland, offering the ideal rural retreat You know when someone envelops you in a warm embrace, and you feel every ounce of stress flow from your body? That’s exactly what the Taing in Reawick does. Situated just a stone’s throw from the beach, in a quiet corner of Shetland’s west mainland, the house has been lovingly restored, the interior care [...]
East-Gate self catering, Vidlin: A review & itinerary for your stay
East-Gate, Vidlin, the perfect retreat for a family holiday Interested in staying somewhere but not sure what to do in the local area? Let Shetland with Laurie help you. In this post, I have teamed up with Karen & Neil Hay who gave us the keys to their newly established self-catering chalet in the village of Vidlin on Shetland's east mainland and told us to explore... East-Gate self-catering chalet, Vidlin.East-Gate is a modern, new build which is fresh to Shetland's self-cate [...]
The Galleon Girls: A story of the El Gran Grifon
El Gran Grifon wrecked on Fair Isle, Shetland Welcome back to my blog. This is a real break from my norm. What I'm giving you today – with a certain amount of trepidation – is a childrens' book I wrote when I was on maternity leave a few years ago and it's based on the wreck of the El Gran Grifon. There are very few illustrations (because I'm waiting to have it properly illustrated, and hopefully published) so you'll have to use your imaginations until I c [...]
The Spring Equinox & a Neolithic Temple (Stanydale, Shetland)
Welcoming the Spring Equinox at the Stanydale Temple Today I stepped back in time 4,000 years to the heart of Neolithic Shetland, to that moment as dawn arrives and the world stops, where just for a moment everything falls silent. The birds stop singing, the sheep grow quiet, the wind lulls and life is suspended while that first ray of sunlight makes contact with the cold earth as it awakens from winter once more. The moment where the dawn met the day and came through the door at [...]
Staying safe outdoors in Shetland
Passage down to the shore can often be dangerous. Photo Terri Leask Today I took my second dip of the year in the sea; this time it was the North Atlantic (rather than the North Sea) – and this time it was unscheduled. Shetland’s eastern seaboard is flanked by the North Sea – a marginal sea of the North Atlantic stretching across to the mainland of northwestern Europe – on the west side, our 'wild' frontier plays host to the full force of the powerful [...]
When time stopped. Shetland & the Queen of Sweden: A Shetland shipwreck
Cannon from the Queen of Sweden shipwreck, off the Knab, Lerwick. Photo: Donald Jefferies. Time stood still for me today, as I paused and listened to the wind howl down the chimney. In that moment, I was reminded of something someone told me once, a marine archaeologist, who said that one of the most moving things he had discovered on a shipwreck was a stopped clock, stopped at the precise time of loss. In a world governed by time, a stopped clock holds such profound meaning. This idea, [...]
A guide to the top 5 Shetland beaches
St Ninian's Isle tombolo Shetland’s jigsaw coastline has every sort of beach – sandy, stony and everything in between. At this time of year, the sea is a vibrant, turquoise green. It sparkles under the sun. After the cold, long and dark winter, the lengthening days bring a lightness and hope, caught in the smell of spring flapping in the warm breeze like fresh clothes hanging out to dry. I love heading to the coast at this time of year. It makes me feel alive, energised and f [...]
Getting here and away: A guide to travelling to and from Shetland
Sumburgh Head lighthouse, Shetland Shetland, a rugged and exposed island group – or archipelago – sits about 200 miles north of Aberdeen. Its western seaboard is battered by the unbridled power of the North Atlantic, while, on the east coast, the North Sea challenges the ever-changing coastline. The 1,400 miles of coastline is an ever-changing landscape, at the mercy of the sea. Put simply, Shetland is closer to the Arctic Circle than it is to the UK's urban powerhouse, Londo [...]
What's in a Story? The art of the storyteller in culture & tradition
The night was dark and the wind whistled around, screaming like a banshee as it forced an icy draft through every crack and crevice in the stonework of the small thatch clad house… This is the home of the storyteller. Stories can evoke memories of childhood, of times past, and bring together people who have a sense of shared experience Have you ever become lost in the pages of a book, exploring the threads of a story? I love this escape from the world. I need and crave it in eq [...]
Happy Newerday (New Year)
An abandoned Shetland croft house on Shetland's west mainland Happy New Year! And before anyone says anything – no, I’m not late to the party – in actual fact, the rest of the world turned up too early. Today (13th January) residents on the remote island of Foula will celebrate New Year. Newerday (New Year's day) celebrations in this remote outpost of the Shetland archipelago will see the bringing in of the New Year in the company of friends and neighbour [...]
My year review: 2018
This was my most liked photo of 2018. An abandoned house in Burra. This is not the blog post I had planned out in my mind. I had great intentions. I was going to make time, sit and write a meaningful and reflective post about my first year in business; what I’ve learnt and how I mean to progress in 2019. Unfortunately, it’s 5.30 (it's now 10.50) on Hogmanay, there’s a Nerf gun war happening in the living room, Aaron’s trying to make a beef wellington with a runnin [...]
The winter solstice and a Neolithic temple
A winter sunrise in December As we approach the end of the year it’s a good time to reflect back and take stock. For me the year has been fast paced, busy – a period of discovery and growth and much in my life has changed immeasurably, for the better. I’ve started a business, got married, made friends, changed career and left behind what made me unhappy. Today (21st December) is the winter solstice, also known as midwinter, or traditionally, in the days of the Julian [...]
Grandad's sweet oatcakes
Good evening! Who doesn't love a bit of festive baking? If you follow me on Instagram then you will know where this blog post has come from – if not, let me explain.This morning, I shared a photo of the cliffs at Eshaness and explained that it was a stormy day here in Shetland and that I was stuck at home with two snotty bairns so I planned on baking the Christmas oatcakes – we are massive cheese fans in this house, and Christmas wouldn't be Christmas without the bumper [...]
A recipe for Trench Cake: Remembrance Day thoughts
Ingredients all laid out with Granny Eliza's earthenware mixing bowl On 11th November 1918 after four long years, the guns stopped, marking the end of the First World War, and this Sunday marks the centenary and the signing of the Armistice agreement. This blog is peppered with remembrance, thanks a big helping of family history. War had ravaged Europe and to keep up the morale of troops fighting for [...]
Geirhildr's loch - a Viking saga from Shetland
Geographically speaking, the loch at Girlsta is interesting; it's the deepest in Shetland, at about 65ft deep in places. From an ecological perspective, it's fascinating; it's the natural habitat of a unique sub-species of fish native only to Shetland; the slender char. Found in the loch, this fish is a relative of the Arctic char. The char was marooned here following the last Ice Age, about 10,000 years ago. The char adapted and changed over the years into a distinct sub-species now only found [...]
Shetland & Scotland: the same, but different
Having recently spent a few days on the Scottish mainland, I decided to investigate the differences, from a visitors point of view, between Shetland and Scotland. Of course to a visitor, this sentence alone will seem counter-intuitive because obviously, Shetland is part of Scotland so why do we speak about it as though it's a different country altogether? Anyone who follows my Instagram stories will know that we got stuck on the [...]
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In 2020, just before the world as we knew it drew to a standstill, my husband and I went to New York. We spent five days exploring the city and ticking off all the ‘must sees’ from the list. I spent months planning the trip in a notebook, and while we were there, I kept a little diary of our time. We did all the main attractions: Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, the Flatiron Building, Madison and Times Square, Central Park, the Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, DUMBO, Top of the Rock and much more besides.
I loved the few days we spent there, but a part of me felt that I could have planned it better.
But why am I telling you all this? When planning the trip, I felt overwhelmed and frustrated that nobody would prepare it for me, sit me down, and tell me what I needed to do to make the most of this beautiful city. I felt sure someone would offer a service to create a perfect New York itinerary tailored to my needs, but there wasn’t.