Scottish travel blog from an islander’s perspective
Shetland's summer seabirds
An Arctic Tern at midsummer with Foula in the background The return of the seabirds is one of my favourite times of the year. It’s filled with hope and the reassurance that, despite everything, the cyclical processes that guide the natural world continue regardless of the latest news story that’s making the headlines and keeping us awake at night.Shetland is a birders paradise, with over one million nesting seabirds returning to their noisy colonies every summer, breeding on [...]
A walk to the Ness of Burgi, South Mainland
Ness of Burgi fort with Sumburgh Head in the background Last weekend we visited Sumburgh Head and the fantastic new Unken Caffee. With commanding views out to sea and north across the South Mainland, it got me thinking about how past people lived and about the architecture, defensive or otherwise, that they built here.Shetland’s South Mainland, at one time, was a highly fortified area. If we rewind about 2,000 years to the Iron Age and place ourselves at Sumburgh Head, the landscap [...]
Eight ways to enjoy Shetland from your sofa
Low light and winter skies in Shetland. As we move into the New Year, it’s difficult not to feel as though we’ve been short-changed. We all liked to imagine that 2021 would be like hitting the reset and bring a fresh start, a line in the sand of sorts. Yet, we are still fighting the same struggles we were in 2020, and coronavirus is still an ever-present threat to the world.Travel looks like it may well remain hampered into 2021 as restrictions continue and nations race to ge [...]
12 blogs of Shetland: Christmas special
Lerwick's picturesque waterfront during a snowy shower This blog is earlier in the week than usual but, let’s face it, who wants to read my blog on Christmas Day! – big thanks to you if you do!To celebrate the 12 days of Christmas I thought I would share some of my blog archives with you. So, over the 12 days of Christmas, I will share a new (old) blog every day from the archive. It occurred to me that I’ve been writing a fortnightly blog for almost three years and ther [...]
Jewellery making with Red Houss Shetland
Jewellery making at Red Houss Shetland using sea pottery and ceramics This week, as we transition into December, I wanted to share something a bit different on the blog, and I wanted to tell you about a fantastic day out I had recently with Mike Finnie of Red Houss Shetland.It pains me to say it, but with Christmas approaching, we’re all looking for that extra special gift, idea or experience and Mike’s jewellery making workshops make a fantastic gift. Choosing presents can b [...]
Understanding and respecting the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
A fire pit made using stones from historic buildings at Fethaland. Photo: David Murray This blog is a little reminder, and hopefully a helpful guide to accessing the outdoors safely and responsibly in Shetland. I first published this in the Shetland Times, our weekly newspaper, to raise awareness amongst locals. The message remains important to everyone visiting Shetland, particularly those who hope to access some of our many beauty spots.People are being urged to get-to-know the Scott [...]
Shetland with kids: A walk up the Burn of Valayre
The Burn of Valayre, Delting, Shetland. It strikes me that despite having children, I’ve never really written about things to see and do with them, so in this blog, I’ll share a short walk to do with kids. Many of the trails that I write about are long and involve carrying tired legs for a part, or all, of the way – great if you want to build muscle, not so great if you want to relax and soak in the scenery.Here in Shetland, we are just heading into the second week of [...]
Shetland with Laurie’s guide to the best of Shetland fiction
Jarlshof, the Earl's House (see The Pirate below). Photo: Sophie Whitehead I don’t know about you, but I’ve been enjoying getting through my reading list recently; and what better way to enjoy a place, without visiting, than through the pages of a well-written book.In this blog, I have selected my top 10 Shetland fiction reads which I hope you too will enjoy and savour until you can visit. So draa in a chair and start reading ... Shadowed Valley by John. J. Graham [...]
Shetland’s award-winning beaches
St Ninian's Isle beach in Shetland's South Mainland. Whether it’s hidden coves, sweeping sands or stony strands, Shetland has it all and, among the many beaches that make up Shetland’s breathtaking coastline, there are five that have been included in the national Beach Awards, part of the Keep Scotland Beautiful charity.These awards “are the benchmark for quality, celebrating clean, well managed and sustainable beaches.” Those selected “demonstrate excelle [...]
Seabirds and Seals: A book review
‘Whiskers’, a favourite grey seal at Shetland Catch. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Wills. With more and more of us looking to literature to get our daily break away from the news, I thought that in this blog, I would share a book review I wrote for The New Shetlander. The New Shetlander is a magazine founded in 1947 – the oldest literary and community journal in Scotland. It comes out every quarter, and the editors welcome contributions about Shetland and the world. If y [...]
The origins of Up Helly Aa and the festival today
Up Helly Aa is almost upon us and you can feel excitement levels in the town growing as people make ready for, what is to some, the social event of the year. Up Helly Aa, despite what is often believed, is not an ancient festival passed down from Norse times, but it is a festival with its roots in Shetland’s Victorian era. And like any proper Victorian soiree, theatrical pomp and ceremony was abundant…
Top 7 places to visit in Shetland
Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement. Photo: Sophie Whitehead As you read this, I will (hopefully) be sunning my weary legs on a beach in the Adriatic, or exploring a medieval town’s backstreets. The reality is, I’ll probably be trying to rub sun cream into sandy skin, stickied with ice-cream while wondering if it’s an acceptable time to order a large glass of sauvignon blanc. As I was planning the holiday, I found myself ‘googling’ “best things to [...]
The Lodge, Fetlar: A review and itinerary for your stay
The Lodge in Fetlar; the perfect rural retreat in Shetland. In early August we stayed in an award-winning self-catering cottage in Fetlar. The Lodge sits tucked above the shore, overlooking Lambhoga, and won the 2019 Lux Life’s most Tranquil Accommodation award. And wow, what a spot. As you drive into Houbie, the heart of the island, The Lodge comes into view. Nestled in the shadow of the impressive, if imposing, Leagarth House to which the Lodge was built to serve; originally as a [...]
A beginner's guide to Shetland: A few pointers in the right direction for those arriving.
Commercial Street, Lerwick on a busy summer day A beginners guide to ShetlandYou’ve read the travel guide? Great. You’ve seen the Shetland TV series, even better; now read a real guide from a local. Delve a little deeper into the fascinating culture of the place I call home: Shetland.Our island’s culture and tradition is unique and distinctively ‘not Scottish’ – if that’s a thing? We’ve only been part of Scotland for 550 years so don’ [...]
A walk to Hermaness, Unst
A sheep at Hermaness, Unst Have you ever wondered what it would feel like to stand on the edge of the world? When I was little, I had big dreams. Dreams of sailing away to far-flung places in the world, but as I grew older, my career advisor told me that that wasn’t possible. “You can’t sail around the world,” she said. Despite this dream-shattering moment, I often find myself thinking about the vastness of the world, and our place in it, as I gaze out over the ro [...]
A guide to walking to the Lang Ayre, Northmavine
The Lang Ayre, Northmavine. Photo courtesy of Southspear Media If a Munro is a small mountain, then a Marilyn is a small Munro. And a small-small mountain is exactly what we climbed (and some) a few weeks ago. I was invited to join a lovely group of folk on a hike to the Lang Ayre in Northmavine in Shetland’s North Mainland. The Lang Ayre was a bucket list goal of mine, the long walk which takes in the small-small mountain, Ronas Hill – the highest in Shetland – is one [...]
Summer or Winter: Da Simmer Dim at 60° North
Morning light in Shetland's west mainland I often read Peedie Peebles’ Summer or Winter Book by Mairi Hedderwick to my bairns. They’ve both loved it; and so did I when it was read to me as a child. This illustrated children’s book looks at the antics of mischievous toddler, Peedie Peebles, as he goes through the trials and tribulations of being little, following him through summer and winter. Importantly, it highlights the differences between the seasons – the end [...]
Packing list: What to wear in Shetland
A summer day at the Hams of Roe (note the hat) I’m always reminded of the words of my great-grandmother when thinking about what to wear; her words still echo in my head as clear as though it was yesterday. “Nivir cast a cloot, till da munt o’ May is oot” were the words she – and many before her – said. And it’s true; we still experience cool weather in May. Wrapped up and layered up against the elements at Eshaness in winter. Phot [...]
Varda self-catering: A review & itinerary for your stay
Looking down Whalefirth, Yell Shetland is peppered with beautiful old buildings, and none are more evocative and thought-provoking than some of our old church buildings that are found dotted around the islands. Once seats of spiritual worship and ecclesiastical power, many are now privately owned and have undergone refurbishment. Varda self-catering, situated on the island of Yell, is one of these. Varda self-catering, former church for the Herra community, lovingly restored [...]
A Guide to cycling in Shetland: What you need to know
All photos courtesy of James Irvine With summer just around the corner, many of us are dusting off our bikes and hitting the roads (or pavements). I spoke to James Irvine about his experiences cycling in Shetland. Many people ask me about cycling here, and as I’m more of the cycle-around-taking-Instagram-videos kinda cyclist, I thought I’d better consult an expert on this one. If you are thinking to come to Shetland on two wheels rather than four, then th [...]
More about Shetland
Shetland is in my blood. Visit my blog for local insights, tips and advice.
The Clift Hills are a series of low-lying hills (200-300 metres) that rise from Clift Sound. Royl Field (293m) is the largest of these hills and the second largest in Mainland Shetland (and the third largest in Shetland). During the Second World War, a de Havilland Mosquito Mk VII “DZ642” of the 627 Squadron, Royal Air Force, crashed on Royl Field on 22nd November 1944.
The Clift Hills dominate every area of the South Mainland. From Burra to the west, they rise steeply from the sea below, creating a ‘wall’ between east and west. In summer, low clouds and fog often threaten to spill over the hills from the east. When the South Mainland lies shrouded in a blanket of mist, the sun usually shines to the west, the hills providing a barrier against the encroaching sea fog.